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Fashionable Encounters
At the heart of this anthology lies the world of fashion: a concept that pervades the realm of clothes and dress; appearances and fashionable manners; interior design; ideas and attitudes. Here sixteen papers focus on the Nordic world (Denmark, Norway, Sweden Finland, Iceland, the Faroe Isles and Greenland) within the time frame AD 1500–1850. This was a period of rapid and far-reaching social, political and economic change, from feudal Europe through political revolution, industrialisation, development of international trade, religious upheaval and technological innovation; changes impacting on every aspect of life and reflected in equally rapid and widespread changes in fashion at all lev...
Fashion and Museums
Why is fashion "in fashion" in museums today? This timely volume brings together expert scholars and curators to examine the reasons behind fashion's popularity in the twenty-first century museum and the impact this has had on wider museum practice. Chapters explore the role of fashion in the museum across a range of international case studies including the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, The Fashion Museum at Bath, ModeMuseum in Antwerp and many more. Contributions look at topics such as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences and how curators present broader themes and issues such as gender, class and technology innovatively through exhibiting fashion. Drawing on approaches from dress history, fashion studies, museum studies and curatorship, this engaging book will be key reading for students and scholars across a range of disciplines.
Material Literacy in 18th-Century Britain
The eighteenth century has been hailed for its revolution in consumer culture, but Material Literacy in Eighteenth-Century Britain repositions Britain as a nation of makers. It brings new attention to eighteenth-century craftswomen and men with its focus on the material knowledge possessed not only by professional artisans and amateur makers, but also by skilled consumers. This edited collection gathers together a group of interdisciplinary scholars working in the fields of art history, history, literature, and museum studies to unearth the tactile and tacit knowledge that underpinned fashion, tailoring, and textile production. It invites us into the workshops, drawing rooms, and backrooms o...
Inca Knits
Incorporating the vibrant style of ancient Incan knitting with a nod to contemporary trends, this new collection of knitwear designs features 25 garments that bring the vibrant and geometric motifs of the South American tradition to the 21st century. By innovatively combining knit-and-purl techniques in lightweight yarns, the stunning colors, stripes, and zigzags of South American patterns are complemented by subtle textures. All the featured projects are suitable for any intermediate knitter, with instructions and charts for each pattern as well as a glossary to clarify various knitting techniques. Beyond its instructional role, this guide also directs knitters to find inspiration for their own designs by examining the landscape, wildlife, and pottery of the high Andes.
Shadow Economies in the Globalising World
From West Indian sugar and bottles of Southeast Asian arrack to French red wines, English felt cloth, and Mediterranean lemons, many global wares ended up in the Scandinavian borderlands during the late eighteenth century. This book explores how and why these goods came to be there and analyses what smuggling can reveal about the emergence of global trade, the formation of the nation state, and the development of consumer society in Europe’s northernmost outskirts. This book shows that the global underground was ubiquitous in the Nordic countries and fundamentally altered them, politically, economically, socially, and culturally. Through re-evaluating the role of smuggling the book complem...
Knitting Out of Africa
Beautiful and historic African carpets, baskets, and other textiles provide the design inspiration for these 16 sophisticated knitted cardigans, pullovers, and sweater vests. Intended for seasoned knitters, these projects use domino, double knitting, entrelac, intarsia, and stranded two-color techniques worked in fingering-weight yarns. The Shoowa Vest, the African Domino Pullover, and the Arrowheads Cropped Pullover show off fancy stitching, while other designs feature colors borrowed from the mud-dried fabrics of Mali, the block patterns of Ghana, or motifs from Nigeria, Sierra Leone, Zaire, and Zimbabwe. African animals decorate the Giraffe Vest and Zebra Cardigan, and elsewhere leaping antelope and birds in flight are used in repeating patterns. Full instructions and charted patterns for at least two adult sizes are provided for each design and high-quality photographs of the finished pieces showcase these classic additions to any wardrobe.
A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment
Eighteenth-century fashion was cosmopolitan and varied. Whilst the wildly extravagant and colorful elite fashions parodied in contemporary satire had significant influence on wider dress habits, more austere garments produced in darker fabrics also reflected the ascendancy of a puritan middle class as well as a more practical approach to dress. With the rise of print culture and reading publics, fashions were more quickly disseminated and debated than ever, and the appetite for fashion periodicals went hand in hand with a preoccupation with the emerging concept of taste. Richly illustrated with 100 images and drawing on pictorial, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.
Dressing with Purpose
Dress helps us fashion identity, history, community, and place. Dress has been harnessed as a metaphor for both progress and stability, the exotic and the utopian, oppression and freedom, belonging and resistance. Dressing with Purpose examines three Scandinavian dress traditions—Swedish folkdräkt, Norwegian bunad, and Sámi gákti—and traces their development during two centuries of social and political change across northern Europe. By the 20th century, many in Sweden worried about the ravages of industrialization, urbanization, and emigration on traditional ways of life. Norway was gripped in a struggle for national independence. Indigenous Sámi communities—artificially divided by...
Fashioned in the North
This edited volume showcases new examples - previously untold stories of images, photographers, publications, and institutions - partly unknown outside the Nordic countries. The authors examine the reasons for and implications of this underexposure, taking on a photographic metaphor. While simultaneously challenging previously taken-for-granted ideas of the center and periphery in this field, the book also widens the study of fashion photography. Notably, the hybridity of approaches may enrich future studies of fashion photography. In Fashioned in the North, fashion photography is viewed as a transnational phenomenon and a material object, as well as a medium that is part of a media system and a result of archival systems and history writings. Furthermore, the book displays how studies of fashion photography can be so much more than stories of a few names and iconic images or studies of individual and periodic style. Indeed, the study of fashion photography may be a prism through which we can uncover cultural, social, economic, and ideological aspects of society at present and in the past.
Disseminating Dress
Fashion travels. Every new shape of sleeve, each novel method of cutting and any innovation in fabric has spread through complex networks of makers, retailers and consumers. Disseminating Dress represents the first historical study of how these networks of fashion communication functioned and evolved in an increasingly global material world. Focussing on Britain – separated from mainland Europe, yet increasingly globally-linked – this volume will trace how dress was disseminated in and out of one island nation. The paths made by print, image and commodities around the globe have enabled historians to reimagine a connected material world. The influence of innovations in dissemination shap...
