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The former professional surfer tells his own story On the surface he was Tom Carroll, dreamer, brilliant surfer, Australian sports hero, fitness fanatic, businessman, family man, and big wave charger. But inside turned the terrible wheel of drug addiction--part family curse, part legacy of the footloose surf culture he'd done so much to legitimize. Tom's family and friends struggled with him, kept his secrets, and looked on in anger and fear as the wheel began to grind him down. Then a window opened, but getting through it made charging Pipeline look like a piece of cake. This is the story of an unlikely moral education: of humility, family, damage, brotherhood, youth, stupidity, glory, single-mindedness, and surrender, and about the feeling of water moving under a surfboard, how it can bind past to present and make sense of lives.
A beautiful tomboy nicknamed "Trouble," Lisa Andersen ran away from home at age sixteen, determined to become the best surfer in the world. In this wholly original biography, esteemed surf writer Nick Carroll captures her unconventional path to fame. Lisa Andersen did indeed become surfing world championnot once, but four times. Along the way she raised a baby daughter on tour, launched the Roxy brand surf wear for girls, broke a thousand hearts, and inspired an entire generation of girls to surf. Packed with color photographs and never-before-revealed details of her fascinating life, Fearlessness lays bare the story of a young woman who conquered the surf world and changed it forever.
In the land of sand castles, they're the kings. A million and a half of us watch them on TV every week as they save lives and win Logies. And all they're doing is their job - and what a job it is! This is the inside story of Bondi Rescue's lifeguards, that casual bunch of easy-going water-boys who look after Australia's most famous piece of sand and surf - who've somehow become famous as a result. As you'll find out between these pages, there's quite a bit more to the Bondi Rescue boy - and crew - than meets the eye . . . or the TV camera. Be a part of their incredible journey and discover the effect this has had on their lives. 'If you're ever lucky enough to paddle way out the back with the guys on the rescue boards, that's when the stories begin to flow. Not only are these men true Australian heroes, they can weave a great yarn too.' - Andrew G
In the world of sport surfing is unique... unique in that it never was a sport in the first place and for most surfers today, still isn’t. Born from the Hawaiian love of the ocean — and their love of taking days off when the waves were good — surfing swiftly crossed the cultural membrane into the Western world, seducing generations of kids. To these kids surfing’s appeal was simple: nobody owned the waves. No rules, no boundaries. It was total freedom. Surfing might have seduced the West, but at the same time the very Western ideals of progress, commerce, rules and boundaries began working on surfing, and a group of surfers suddenly dreamed of something bigger – the idea of surfing...
A definitive and highly readable history of surfing and the cultural, political, economic, and environmental consequences of its evolution from a sport of Hawaiian kings and queens to a billion-dollar worldwide industry Despite its rebellious, outlaw reputation, or perhaps because of it, surfing occupies a central place in the American – and global – imagination, embodying the tension between romantic counterculture ideals and middle-class values, between an individualistic communion with nature and a growing commitment to commerce and technology. In examining the enduring widespread appeal of surfing in both myth and reality, The World in the Curl offers a fresh angle on the remarkable ...
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The Complete Guide to Surfing Your Best volume two unlocks the core secrets of surfing skills and knowledge previously held only by the sport's elite. This book is designed to help surfers of all abilities develop their own technique and style, to be the best they can be, and enjoy every wave to the utmost. Written and edited by the world's most-respected surf journalist Nick Carroll, this book carries no less than 500 instructional images.
"A definitive look at the origin of PayPal and its founding team--including Elon Musk, Amy Rowe Klement, Peter Thiel, Julie Anderson, Max Levchin, Reid Hoffman, and many others whose stories have never been shared. They have defined the modern world. This experience defined them"--
This book contains 25 short stories from 5 classic, prize-winning and noteworthy authors. The stories were carefully selected by the critic August Nemo, in a collection that will please the literature lovers. The theme of this edition is: Mystery and Detective. For more exciting titles, be sure to check out our 7 Best Short Stories and Essential Novelists collections. This book contains: - Jacques Futrelle. - H. and E. Heron. - Arthur Morrison. - John Ulrich Giesy. - Frank L. Packard.